Food, food culture, food as culture and the cultures that grow our food

Food-related film at the 4th Berlinale Talent Campus

February 23, 2006


‘Doña Ana’, watercolour and collage that inspired Marlon Vasquez Silva’s animation film Strawberry Eating Woman. ‘Doña Ana’ © Marlon Vasquez Silva, digital image courtesy of the artist

Apparently the director of the Berlinale International Film Festival, Dieter Kosslick, is obsessed with food and cooking. This explains why one of the six programmes had as its theme Food, Hunger and Taste. The 4th edition of the Berlinale Talent Campus (BTC), a section for young-ish filmmakers (when young means under 40), was dedicated to a heavily-worked relationship between food and film. Aside from my interest in the subjects, this was the most coherent and well-organised programme within the Berlinale. The Talent Campus offered young filmmakers a chance to meet, show their films, attend presentations, workshops and in general become indoctrinated I mean introduced to the film industry.

Although the evenings’ big-screens at the BTC lamentably included worn out choices of food-related film like Babette’s Feast, Eat Drink Man Woman, (how to ruin great films with unimaginative programming) and the dreaded ‘Food + Romantic Comedy’ genre piece, ‘Bella Martha’ by Sandra Nettelbeck, the programmers were wise enough to screen historical gems like Marcel Pagnol’s ‘Harvest (Regain)’, informative documentaries like Hal Erickson’s ‘Alice Waters and her Delicious Revolution’ (2003) and the most sensual cinematic food chain and materials exploration ever made, ‘Drawing Restraint 9′ by Matthew Barney.

This year, thirty-two young filmmakers were spotlighted in the Berlinale Talent Campus and divided into a five part programme titled unoriginally, ‘Food for Thought’. From the selection, the films on the subject of hunger tended to suffer most from ill-research and moralist pedantics.

But when the films were good, they were very very good. Here is the culiblog selection of the eight best films on Food, Hunger and Taste from this year’s Berlinale Talent Campus (in alphabetical order):


EviannaÏve image still © Verena Vargas, used courtesy of e|x|il Film

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Tiny Katerina serves food to the dogs, image still © Ivan Golovnev, used courtesy of Golvnev Film

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Let the future begin, kimchi air conditioner is here

February 15, 2006


Romantic kimchi photo courtesy of “Do the Bart” Charlotte Yong San Gullach

Kimchi is pickled cabbage (or radish or mustard leaf or…) and I feel quite comfortable in reporting that it is one of the top five most delicious things you can put in your mouth. It is Gawd’s own comfort food, made with generous amounts of fresh garlic, ginger and red peppers, it is crazy healthy. So healthy, that an entire nation and a large population of several other nations believe that kimchi can prevent illness. I belong to one of those nations. Kimchi Nation. Kimchi also has a farty smell, but regular culiblog readers know that I just live for that.


Museum of Kimchi photo courtesy of NihaoGirl

And if all that weren’t reason enough to get a leg up on the kimchi altar, apparently kimchi can also kill the avian flu virus H5N1 and is soon to be used in the manufacture of air conditioners. No Fred, not hair conditioners, AIR conditioners.


Snowy vats of kimchi fermenting in the park courtesy of Polish Sausage Queen

Today Reuters reported that: South Korean firm LG Electronics is poised to start marketing an air conditioner with a filter made using an enzyme from the pungent national dish kimchi that is aimed at protecting against the bird flu virus. “We developed the filter with the aim of protecting people against bird flu,” LG spokeswoman Park Se-won said by telephone, citing four studies from domestic and overseas institutions that she said showed the filter eliminated the deadly H5N1 virus.


Kimchi pots in the public space by Bryan Hughes

Unfortunately the air conditioners will use only the enzyme from the kimchi and will not transmit its smell. This is a mistake waiting to happen and I would like to urge you to get on the horn immédiatement to let LG Electronics know how wrong that would be.

Thank you Willem for this culi tip. You know I love the kimchi.


Glamour shot of kimchi courtesy of a person with wonderful photographic skills and whose name I cannot read because it is written in Korean

A list of links to images and air condioner manufacturers for Kimchi researchers and cultural activists.

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Kimchi, the comfort food of the gawds courtesy of culiblog

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When fish fall in love

February 13, 2006

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film still from When Fish Fall in Love, shows main character Atieh, her daughter and sisters preparing orange syrup in the garden. Image used without permission

When it comes to food-related film, I couldn’t have made a better start at the Rotterdam International Film Festival. Drawing Restraint 9 had me reeling for days. Good for Drawing Restraint, bad for all the others that I saw directly afterwards. I had all but given up hope for finding a new approach to the genre, when I went to see the last film on my list.

When Fish Fall in Love saved me from being mired in bourgeois feel-good movies, films that are little more than romantic comedies with chefs and kitchens, gratuitous food porn, films that make audiences twitter at the thought of eating bull’s testicles. Fish Fall in Love is Iranian theatre director Ali Raffi’i’s first feature about two lovers being reunited after a twenty-year separation, and a new generation of about-to-be lovers, about to be separated.

Ex-political prisoner and Iranian émigré Aziz returns to his home at a Caspian Sea coastal village, where he finds that his former beloved Atieh, her daughter and two sisters have appropriated his family home and turned it into a restaurant. The film is shot like an old postcard from your grandparents’ seaside holiday, complete with long images of regional specialities. In this film, no dish leaves the kitchen without making a cameo. Can you imagine jewelled rice doing the red-carpet walk at Cannes?

Ali Raffi’i spoke to the audience before the screening, explaining that this film was about the difference between the way his and the generation now in their twenties, express love for one another. His intricately developed characters convey the complicated situation of a generation (Aziz and Atieh) whose political passion (may have necessarily) precedes their passion for each other. This contrasts sharply with the generation of Atieh’s daughter Touka and her Teheran beloved Reza, who are even driven to criminal acts in the hope of supporting their love.

Admirably, Raffi’i endeavoured to show a different view of woman than what he described as ‘ordinarily portrayed in Iranian cinema’; a woman whose destiny is not dependent on the presence or hope for presence of a man in her life. Not being sufficiently familiar with Iranian cinema to judge, I had to think, ‘Heq, come on over here, that’s a hole in the market!’ Until now, the art installation videos of Shirin Neshat and the British documentary filmmaker Kim Longinotto’s Divorce Iranian Style were until now, my sole influences.

While Atieh is a strong character, supporting her daughter, two of her sisters and herself by running a small restaurant, she is also always really nervous about this role. Preparing lunch and dinner for only twenty, though she’s been doing it for years, seems to be a monumental feat for her. Among the many kitchen shots of brilliantly presented ‘home-style’ cooking, the viewer is treated to beads of sweat on noses and upper lips, the wiping off of sweat from brows and the drenched backs of clothing. I’m thinking, ‘Sister, what you need is a smaller menu.’ But Atieh’s unwieldy menu seems to represent traditional culture and her uncomfortable relationship with it.

The film’s ending is deliciously open, giving few clues as to how Aziz and Atieh will give shape to their deep love and respect for one another in the future.This combined with Raffi’i’s rich characters have given me room to identify completely with love’s consequences for Atieh and Aziz. All that I am willing to give away, is that there is a cottage involved. I know that the next time I make orange syrup, this film will be the first thing on my mind.

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